Windows 98 or Windows 2000: Right-side color in the color gradient of an inactive window's title bar. clActiveCaption specifies the left side color. Windows 98 or Windows 2000: Right-side color in the color gradient of an active window's title bar. The default color for the control to which the color is assigned The following table lists the colors that are defined in the Windows Control panel.Ĭurrent border color of the active windowĬurrent color of the active window's title barĬurrent color of the application workspaceĬurrent background color of the Windows desktopĬurrent color of the highlighting on a buttonĬurrent color of a shadow cast by a buttonĬurrent color of the text on the active window's title bar These color constants are listed in Graphics unit (section Constants). The following table lists the colors that map to the closest matching color in the system palette. If the highest-order byte is two ($02 or 0x02), the value is matched with the nearest color in the logical palette of the current device context.
If the highest-order byte is one ($01 or 0x01), the color obtained is the closest matching color in the currently realized palette.
If the highest-order byte is zero, the color obtained is the closest matching color in the system palette. If you specify TColor as a specific 4-byte hexadecimal number instead of using the constants defined in the Vcl.Graphics unit, the low three bytes represent RGB color intensities for blue, green, and red, respectively. These constants map either directly to the closest matching color in the system palette (for example, clBlue maps to blue) or to the corresponding system screen element color defined in the Color section of the Windows Control panel (for example, clBtnFace maps to the system color for button faces.) The Vcl.Graphics unit contains definitions of useful constants for TColor. I look forward to hearing from you.Go Up to Using the Properties of the Canvas Object Without putting a test meter on the circuits, I conclude the three electronic ballasts are "bad." What do you suggest I do to correct this problem, rather than removing and replacing my current fixtures? How should I "wire around the ballasts," as I am reading in quite a number of internet posts to influence my LED tubes to work as designed? Or, what should I do to, as you indicate, replace the ballasts with "drivers?" Thanks for your timely communications and guidance. I then replaced those LED tubes with T8 fluorescent tubes. They all worked beautifully until approximately one month ago, when three of the five fixtures "went dark." I replaced the LED tubes w/new tubes of the same type. One year ago, I removed the T8 fluorescent tubes and replaced them with LED tubes.
#Black light blue color code series#
Howdy: Approximately two years ago, I installed five new 110v, 2-tube 4-feet long, T8 fluorescent fixtures having "electronic" ballasts, in a series line (ballasts for each of the five fixtures are wired in parallel to the line) in my residential garage.
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